Beskydy—Skalka
Our favourite activity during winter weekends is hiking along the ridges of Czech mountains. Spending nights out, watching sunsets and sunrises, bonding with locals, and simply being off the regular rhythm of life — this last part sounds cheesy, but it’s true.
We particularly like the northern part of the Beskydy mountains for no obvious reason. It’s just where we started, where the map led us, or maybe it was some kind of destiny. I’m not sure, and I think it doesn’t really matter.
Early on Saturday morning, we left Olomouc and drove to Horní Lomná. We parked in the middle of the village and started the hike right from there. The surrounding hills rise steeply straight from the main road.
Me, being the trailblazer I like to think I am, chose a snow-covered road buried under twenty to thirty centimetres of frozen snow. We were heading straight up toward the main ridge, which logically meant it would be steep — and it was, obviously.
This is usually how a good adventure unfolds. Unmarked roads carry a certain romance. The kind that convinces you you’re somewhere far away, or even foreign. I like it when this happens. I hope Romča feels it too. Often, you unlock places you would never expect.
We were blessed with good weather. The winter warmth of the sun on my face was much needed, and the light it produced was beautiful as well.
For three quarters of the hike, we fought our way through deep, frozen snow.
When we finally emerged from the forest onto a narrow, snowed-up road, we were hugely relieved to find the ridge trail well-trodden. We had already gained most of the elevation — about 600 metres — so there was nothing left that could really surprise us.
Velký Polom is an unassuming peak, forced to endure fierce winds, snowstorms, and frost. Many dead trees stand frozen in place or lie scattered on the ground, creating an eerie but fascinating landscape. From here, you can see distant mountain peaks in Slovakia.
Not far away, the Skalka hut is tucked behind the trees — our place for the night. Food, beer, and a bit of rest before heading out for sunset. A perfect way to end the day.
Later, while sitting inside and having one more beer before sleep, we unintentionally became spectators of an arm-wrestling contest between locals and fellow hikers. What a way to finish the evening. It might have been even better than the sunset.
I got up early for sunrise. I was awake anyway. I spent at least an hour sitting on the windowsill, watching the stars fade and waiting for the sun to appear. Romča joined me a little later.
After breakfast, we headed back. Blue skies, not a cloud in sight, cold and incredibly beautiful. For most of the hike back, we barely met anyone. We were completely alone.
That’s it. I don’t have anything clever to say or leave you with. The only thing that comes to mind is this: go explore for yourself, and don’t always follow marked paths or roads. That’s my only advice to anyone reading this.
